Fashion Rules: Another Idea, And We’re Off to India
Natural fibers, handmade garments, plant-based dyeing, and embroidery by hand are a few of the many unique qualities of Indian fashion. India was one of the first places cotton was harvested and used in fiber production to make clothing [1]. Cotton farming in India is so popular that the industry employs around 6 million people, as reported in 2017 [1]. Ten major states in India grow cotton, these include Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu [1]. Another natural fiber used is silk. During the Aryan period, Indian women wrapped a single piece of cloth (4 to 9 meters long) around themselves known as the sari [2]. The sari dates back to 600 BC in the Vedas time [2]. Women in high-class society wore silk saris, while women in the middle and lower classes had cotton saris. The mere draping of the sari speaks volumes to Indian culture and creativity. Women were able to take a simple piece of unstitched fabric and wrap it around their bodies in so many ways; the draping changed based on religions, locations, social status, and purpose. For more formal events, women draped the sari over their heads as a veil [2]. It doesn’t stop there. Men used the same techniques on turbans during this time. They draped and wrapped a piece of fabric on their heads in various ways [2]. These weren’t the only cultural pieces of clothing used. A traditional kurti is a long top with side slits that is usually made of cotton or silk, with some having hand embroidery adorned across the fronts. A dhoti, also worn by men, is a piece of fabric/sarong tied to resemble loose trousers [2]. During the British era, western fashion began to influence India. Skirts, dresses, gowns, blazers, tuxedos, trousers, and more have become a part of Indian fashion; however, Indian culture still tends to preside as many continue to incorporate traditional Indian fashion pieces in their everyday wear. These include the sari, lehenga (ankle length skirt), sherwani (a long formal coat worn by men), lungi (type of sarong), and the Nehru jacket (hip-length, tailored coat) [2].
From the 1940s to the 1980s, fashion accessories quickly changed. The fashion staple pieces remained, but the accessories and adornments altered with the times. In the 1960s, oversized jewelry and embroidered saris were popular, while the 1970s saw a shift with women’s rights and choices. Conservative, traditional dressing was understated and undesired. Women began wearing bright colors, funky prints, oversized silhouettes, and flashy eyewear [2]! Fabric started to be adopted by the west; people wanted denim, chiffon, satin and other vogue-esque materials [2]. Ikat and Chanderi fabrics were also heavily demanded [3]. Today, much like in America, the Indian fashion has been influenced by Bollywood. Social media also plays a large role in dressing people, no matter the country we live in. Women are fully independent and wear one piece dresses, athleisure, halter tops, gowns, skirts, and more. Men wear basic t-shirts, trousers, and jeans [2]. Comfort wear is everywhere. Especially in the global pandemic, people realized they wanted to look good AND feel good. Indian fashion culture in the modern era includes shorts, capris, jackets, and shirts [2]. Fortunately, culture still exists, and Indian culture is still a part of fashion for many. Women have enhanced their creativity as they developed a unique Indo Western Fusion dress where they pair jeans with a traditional top, or a lehenga skirt with a halter top [2]. This is the current fashion trend where they mix vintage with the modern, keeping their identities at the forefront! Men sport kurtas (collarless loos-fitting long shirts) with sneakers and scarves [2]. Men’s fashion ranges from different kinds of sherwanis to the kurta (similar to the kurtis for women) [4]. The kurta can be shortened for less formal events and paired with jeans. The fabric changes for the occasion with cotton being used for casual wear and silk brocade for more formal events like weddings [4]. Indian suits are similar to the western design in fit, but usually consist of reds, blues, and purples along with embroidery. Most suits do not have collars and are made with brocade fabric [4]. The achkan is a sherwani with a button placket for a classic appeal. This knee-length jacket can be worn by guests at weddings and festivals when used with a heavier fabric [4]. Some men’s and women’s Indian fashion can be very similar in style with only a few alterations done to silhouettes and embroidery.
Another fundamental part of Indian fashion is the embroidery and threadwork put into each piece. Hand-crafted design is an understatement. Almost every region in India provides its unique take on embroidery in the fashion industry. Cities ranging from Mumbai to Surat are key places for embroidery houses [5]. Embroidery, especially when done by hand, creates a one-of-a-kind pattern with vibrant colors and threads. Sequins and other glamorous jewels are used in the process of embroidering bridal gowns for wedding ceremonies [5]. Indian embroidery is inspired by deeply rooted culture and the natural environment around them. It is timeless in design, even in our fast fashion world where younger generations yearn for satisfaction in mere seconds [5]. The process itself is extremely detailed, time consuming, and difficult. One thing I have personally taken note of is that I oftentimes see other cultures (mostly third world countries) use the hand embroidery in their fashion processes. Some include Mexico, Iran, India, and Cuba. Embroidery is a personal technique where a designer can embrace their design, taking the time to make it perfect with every single thread. It is a luxury that can truly not be replaced. Western culture embraces Indian embroidery and yearns for its technical design. One handmade technique of embroidery used in bridal couture is Ek Taar (one-wire) that utilizes a single thread of gold or silver metal with beadwork to create beautiful patterns. It is an extremely laborious, detailed piece of art. [5]. Kalash uses five metals for a more eccentric visual appeal, while Ombre takes a single hue in different shades of embellishments [5]. Tone on tone is a very popular technique, especially in the era of monochromatic fashion, that intertwines embroidery and fabric in a single colorway [5]. The most important part of this process is deciding which embroidery technique to use in a particular project and can take decades of experience to master. As hand embroidery is a process that cannot be rushed, it creates quality in construction. Many people today are beginning to care more about the planet and are choosing quality over quantity, making hand embroidery very well desired.
Ethnic wear in Indian culture is still respected today during religious events, weddings, and festivals. Wearing traditional pieces like the sari, salwar suit, kurta, or ghagra-choli to cultural celebrations is a way to display one’s love for past, current, and future generations [6]. It is an acknowledgment and value of traditions. Embroidered dresses are worn with pride by women at these festivals [6]. The value both Indian men and women place on their culture by wearing traditional clothing to such events has resonated with the rest of the world. The rich culture is very popular across the globe. Love speaks volumes.
Speaking of love, one of the best fashion pieces can be seen at Indian weddings! Before the ceremony, usually the day before or morning of the wedding, the bride and groom take part in the haldi ceremony [7]. This ceremony involves haldi paste (turmeric, oil, and water) being applied to the bride and groom’s bodies (face, neck, hands, and feet) by loved ones [7]. Some will apply a small amount of the paste to their unmarried friends or siblings, as seen in Bridgerton Season 2, for good luck in finding a partner [7]. I guess that worked a little too fast for Kate Sharma! The haldi paste is said to keep away the evil eye and is used to bless the new couple. Its bright yellow color is for prosperity, with some brides/grooms wearing yellow at the wedding for new beginnings. Turmeric has the property of creating glowing skin and is an antiseptic for a blemish-free wedding look [7]. The ceremony itself relaxes the couple and provides purification of the body for the big day [7]. The Mehndi is another Indian wedding tradition. Mehndi is also known as henna, which is a paste that adorns the bride on her wedding day for good luck [8]. The Mehndi ceremony happens the night before the wedding to bring the bride and groom’s female family members together as they wish the bride good health in her marriage [8]. The natural herbs take away any stress, cooling the nerves at the ends of the body as it is applied to the hands and feet [8]. As for attire, the groom will wear a textured, embroidered sherwani with flared trousers. For accessories, he can add a kilangi or sarpech, an uncut diamond ornament with feather accents, to his turban for the special day [9]. The groom may also choose to wear a kirpan, ceremonial sword, to show he is the new protector of the bride, which is popular in Sikh weddings [9]. He will also wear a colored stole draped around the neck which will be used with the bride’s veil to tie the couple together as newlyweds [9]. As for Indian brides, the accessories are customary! Solah shringar means 16 ornaments and relates to the moon’s phases [10]. The bride must wear 16 traditional bridal jewelry/beauty pieces as the ritual places the bride at the same level as the Goddess Lakshmi of fertility and beauty [10]. These 16 pieces include the bindi (red, or any color to match the bride, circle placed between the eyebrows), sindoor (red vermilion powder drawn as a line through the bride’s center-parted hair by the husband - this line is only worn by married women), maang tikka (jeweled crown that drapes down the forehead), kajal (applied to water and lash line of the bride to protect from evil spirits), karn, or kaan, phool (chandbalis, jhumkas, hoop, or stud earrings with precious stones), mehendi/mehndi (henna), nath (nose ring), bajuband (real gold armband worn across forearm tightly), bangles (glass or precious metal bracelets in red, white, and gold depending on culture), haathphool (hand chain connecting finger to wrist with stones and chains), haar (extravagant necklace as the center piece around the neck), kamarband (golden waistband), payal (anklets of silver that make noise when she walks), bichhiya (silver toe ring, usually on second toe), ittar (perfume for wedding ceremonies), and gajra (fresh jasmine or marigold flowers woven into bridal hairstyle) [10]. All of these jewelry pieces by both the bride and groom often use Polki stones which are uncut, unfaceted, and unpolished diamonds in their natural form without the processing [11]. Indian culture holds Polki jewelry in high regard as it requires meticulous skills and months to create, dating back 2500 years ago [11]. As for the dress, Indian women do not wear white, as this color represents mourning in their culture [12]. Tangerine, blue, green, gold, coral, or red (most popular as the color represents happiness and good luck) lehengas and saris are worn by brides [12]. These pieces contain 24 karat gold threaded embroidery, crystals, and intricate designs. The bride also wears a head scarf [12]. She usually changes into a second sari for the reception, with some modern brides wearing a western wedding gown if marrying interracially [12]. The entire process of vibrant colors, detailed jewels, extravagant embroidery, and family coming together is a beautiful moment for the eyes!
Looking to the future, it seems Indian traditional wear will not be disappearing. Indian culture is far too respected, cherished, and loved to leave the hearts of generations to come. People used to, with some continuing to, resent their cultures. In the era we live in, it is hard to identify ourselves when the world is falling apart. People of different backgrounds are going back in time to hating someone for their beliefs. People are being physically attacked for how they look. Countries are at war. Political behavior is tearing families apart. Half of the U.S. is on fire, while the other half is flooded with water. We must all stop with the hate. Embrace your background and find love in our differences. If we were all the same, life would be boring. Just as Indian culture is being embraced by each new generation, we must embrace our own cultural backgrounds and beliefs.
Stay tuned for my next fashion rules blog coming soon…
REFERENCES
[1] https://www.nfsm.gov.in/BriefNote/BN_Cotton.pdf
[2] https://thesecondangle.com/indian-fashion-through-the-ages/
[3] https://kiftfashioncollege.com/evolution-of-indian-fashion-till-21st-century/
[6] https://www.textilemegastore.com/blog-importance-of-traditional-indian-ethnic-wear-for-festivals
[7] https://www.bollywoodshaadis.com/articles/significance-of-haldi-ceremony-in-indian-weddings-3198
[8] https://www.linandjirsa.com/mehndi-photography-for-indian-weddings/
[11] https://www.brides.com/polki-jewelry-5190308