Fashion Rules: The Next Plan is Japan
Fashion has long lived in our world, but each geographical location, culture, race, and religion aid in fostering a new form of fashion to provide identity, community, and passion. Fashion Rules is a series of blogs, and this is the second of many to come. Each post will bring insight into a different culture and society. The next cultural stop is Japan.
The second largest global, luxury market and the trendsetting, fashion capital of Asia is Tokyo, Japan; this city is comprised of fashion houses, bright colors, urban housing, and advancements in technology [1]. Tokyo is not the only place in Japan with a unique style and sense of fashion. Japan apparel has changed over the hundreds of years of its existence. Before clothing provided us with identity, apparel was originally used for the practical reasons of keeping a person warm, covered, and safe. In the early 1600s, Japanese fashion was simple to allow hunters and gatherers to perform their daily tasks without hassle [2]. The traditional kimono was introduced in the Heian period which was between 794 and 1192. This fashion staple was used by women of high society. It was common for upper-class women to layer many pieces of clothing (sometimes up to 20kg in weight) to hide their skin from society [2]. In the 1600s to 1800s, Samurais became bureaucratic lords and required better clothing. Kimonos were then manipulated into more elevated forms of fashion, focusing on color and art to make them more status relevant. This was a stable and peaceful time where wealth spread to other classes, allowing people to desire and afford more out of their clothing. Embroidery techniques now included more vibrant colors, intricate motifs, along with famous artist inspiration. Extra-long sleeves were famously worn by unmarried women, loose kimonos draped comfortably around citizens, and belts grew wider in size [2]. Up into the early 1900s, the Empire of Japan was restored, and the country began to modernize with Western traits. Public officials were required to dress in Western-fashion pieces (also known as yofuku) for work and formal events [2]. Western clothing was the opposite of traditional Japanese wear, making it hard for some citizens to adapt to the clothing as it trickled down through society. Decades into this fashion progression, many women still wore the traditional kimono with scarves, gloves, bags, hats, and umbrellas for everyday living [2]. As time passed, accessories and clothing details began to take on new forms with unique prints and modern silhouettes. Radio, theater, and media played a large role in shaping women’s fashion globally. Women’s fashion focused on clean lines, vertical draping, dresses, robes, and an overall glamorous style. Still, traditional Japanese clothing remained a fashion favorite for women in society as men and children started to incorporate more Western pieces [2]. The mid to late 1900s brought with it a heavy focus on Western clothing as traditional Japanese pieces like the kimono were set aside for special occasions and events. Younger generations embraced pop culture, fads, and fashion trends from America and European countries [2]. Currently, media has provided a platform for fashion and art to point to trends in society. Japanese culture is unique as younger generations are looking to Western fashion for influence, while maintaining traditional values in society. This has led to them creating fashion tribes that are globally recognized as they mix cultures, aesthetics, and East vs West styles [2].
2022 has brought with it a new sense of fashion as the world begins to focus on re-entering society slowly, wearing what makes us happy, and looking to comfort as well as style. Tokyo fashion trends for this year include goth grunge-inspired looks, oversized hoodies, E-girls style, techwear, vibrant printed shirts, prints on prints, metallics, camo prints, dalmatian dots, deconstructed trench coats, monochromatic pieces, oversized silhouettes, cozy coatigans (which coats mixed with cardigans to create a lockdown fashion staple), graphic athleisure, minimalism, knitted headwear, wide leg pants, white on white, cropped blazers, designer face masks, and (bringing it back, if it ever left) the traditional kimono [3]! As gender-neutral looks become more prevalent, as well as demanded, in society, pieces like kimonos with relaxed silhouettes gain popularity for their functionality and comfort.
Seeing that, as much as people would like to believe, we are not fully out of the pandemic, trends are pointing to face masks still being an important part of our wardrobe. Japan trends point to designer face masks being heavily demanded in 2022 [3]. Is this really new for Japan? How long have face masks been a part of their society and why did they not struggle with the issues our world faces now, with people shouting and spitting and recklessly touting “my body, my choice” when it comes to a simple 3 ply-fabric piece with strings of elastic attached to it (one could only wish our society was this passionate about other things…)?
In 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake struck Japan, forcing the citizens of Tokyo and Yokohama to protect themselves from ash and smoke by wearing face masks [4]. Manufacturers worked hard during this time to get the right mask that was comfortable and effective. The second flu hit Japan in 1934, forcing citizens to wear masks to protect themselves in everyday life [4]. In 1950, masks were made in white gauze to show if the mask was used, dirty, or not suitable for wearing; in 1973, the pleated mask was featured in non-woven fabric [4]. The disposable mask was advertised in the 1980s as an always fresh mask to wear, as 2003 brought the 3d mask by Unicharm for ease in breathing [4]. These masks helped in preventing the spread of SARS in 2003 and H1N1 in 2009, leading to more and more Japanese citizens opting to wear face masks routinely [4]. It has been around 100 years since Japanese men and women started to wear masks in their everyday lives. The culture of Japan focuses on respect, privacy, common sense, and the desire to be conscientious of others. This further proves the idea that geographical locations, values, norms, and cultures truly shape people’s identity and fashion choices.
Another large influence on fashion is just that- fashion influencers and icons. Japanese fashion influencers play an important role in supporting and streamlining fashion trends in society. Naomi Watanabe, a Japanese comedian, created her own fashion company (Punyus) to support plus sized clothing in the country [5]. Plus sized clothing is oftentimes rare in Japan, but she was able to successfully invoke her brand into malls there! Naomi’s focus is on normalizing plus sized brands in Japan and promoting body positivity among the youth in the area [5]. Another Japanese fashion influencer is Aya Stella; she brings out-of-the-ordinary styles into view, popularizing a more mature baddie gyal culture! She brings in looks from Western fashion icons like the Kardashians and puts a Japanese spin on them to truly stand out [5]. She started in the industry as a fashion magazine model and now is the designer for Yello Shoes, promoting thigh high boots as a trending must have [5]! The Amiaya twins are 29 years old and famously recognized in the fashion realm as models, DJs, pop culture icons, and creative directors for Jouetie (women’s fashion brand in Japan) as of 2018 [5]. They create the direction for fashion and music as they wear many hats in society, which is beginning to be a norm in our world. The trends set by influencers, celebrities, high-ranking officials, and fashion directional leaders will continue to impact society’s take on fashion, no matter the culture. Naomi has 9.6m followers on Instagram and is using her status to change the norms and beliefs in Japanese culture to elevate body positivity for young women everywhere. The millions of followers on her page will see that it is okay to look the way we look; not everyone has to be a size 2. She is changing people’s lives. Aya, with 80.9k followers, is bending the rules for Japanese women in fashion, making it okay to use apparel and accessories to express yourself and truly build an identity. Her styling and design direction for shoes is a true aspiration! Amiaya, with 288k followers, inspire and engage the young Japanese women with beautiful prints, vibrant colors, and matching looks!
Society will always be influenced, but it is who we allow to influence us, whether it be in fashion or other realms, that is important. Japanese fashion has changed gradually overtime, but never loses its true sense of culture or tradition. The kimono will always have a place in Japanese fashion; it started as a necessity for everyday life then became a piece for formal occasions and is now a casual outerwear must have! The kimono is so popular, that it is oftentimes worn outside Japanese culture. Western style may have influenced Japan throughout the years, but Japan also played a role in Western fashion trends as well. Stay tuned for more on culture and fashion in my upcoming blogs…
REFERENCES
[2] https://www.tokyoweekender.com/2021/04/japanese-fashion-eras-heian-heisei/
[3] https://thevou.com/fashion/japanese-fashion/
[4] https://restaurants-guide.tokyo/column/face-masks-in-japan-100-years-running/
[5] https://tokyotreat.com/blog/top-5-japanese-fashion-influencers